Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts

Sunday, 23 January 2011

New Zealand - South Island - 27th December 2010

The view from the Queen Charlotte trek

Picton - 28th December 2010
Despite the heavy rain here in Picton, we decide to hike part of the Queen Charlotte trek. As we drive up to the start point up through narrow, curvey roads we see bulldozers clearing landslides caused by the previous nights rainfall and wonder if this is a regular occurrence. It never occurs to us that the actual trek might also be affected so we drive on.

As we start the walking the route we're clambering over fallen trees and through knee high waters. Althoug a bit annoying, we laugh about it and take it all in good spirits. After about 2 hours of gradually climbing we come to the biggest landslide yet which has completely wiped out the rest of the route. Utterly disappointed we turn around and head back down. We drown our sorrows back in town with a pair of beers and one of the best battered cod we've ever had.

New Zealand rain stops play

Queenstown - 31st December to 1st January
New Year's Eve and we're off to Queenstown to celebrate. Unfortunately we arrive to a heaving town of party people and everywhere is booked up. We contemplate sleeping in a car park but the signs of 'No Camping' and heavy fines finally persuades us otherwise. We finally find a free doc campsite 20 minutes out of town and 30 minutes down a dusty track. It's a truely beautiful location but we wonder how the hell we're going to get into town for our New Years' meal and booze. We can't even call a taxi as our phones have no reception. We decide to hitchhike! Luckily for us two brothers from Invercargill save our legs and drop us in the centre of town for and evening of boozy merriment.

Happy New Year from Lucy

Happy New Year from Rich

Queenstown from up on high

Milford Sound - 1st and 2nd January 2011
Sir Ian McKellen once descibed the drive to Milford Sound as the best drives in the World and he's not wrong. For 4 and a half hours we pass through incredible mountain ranges and dense woodlands that have probably looked the same for millions of years (well, except for the fine, tarmac road running through it that is). Once there, we are again without a place to stay so decide to free camp in a car park overnight using public toilets to wash ourselves.

The pitch black waters of Milford Sound

Next morning we are booked on a cruise around the surrounding inlets and up to the open sea and back. In the moody, morning light Milford Sound looks amazing and everyone is quiet and in awe of the surrounding mountains, the scale of which are mind-blowing. This has definitely been one of the highlights for me so far.

Lucy in Milford Sound

Abel Tasman National Park, 8th - 10th January 2011

We drive north from Westport to Abel Tasman National Park which is situated at the very top of the south island. On our way there, we stopped off for lunch at Cafe Affair in Nelson which is where Lucy used to work back in 2004. After a quick "Kia Ora" to the owner, we were on the road again, destination Golden Bay.

Our campsite was PACKED with camping Kiwis. When on holiday, they seem to take with them their entire belongings. They pack shelves, lamps, sofas, matresses, TVs, bikes, kayaks and speedboats. We also saw a glitterball hanging from the centre of a marquee-sized tent. This is camping in style and puts our cosy campervan to shame.


Amazing turquoise waters of Abel Tasman National Park

Next day we´re up early to drive to Totaranui Bay where we will catch a water taxi to start a 4-hour trek from Torrent Bay to Tonga Bay. Once again, it´s really beautiful here. The ocean is the most amazing turquoise colour, the beaches golden sandstone and the sky cyan blue. It´s an easy enough trek and nothing too strenuous compared to what we´ve done previously. Munching ginger biscuits along the route helps keep our energy levels up. When we get to Tonga Bay, we have 45 minutes to swim in the sea and bath on the warm sands before our boat arrives to take us back to the campervan.


The golden, sandstone beaches of Totaranui Bay


Peeking down at kayaking tourists

The next day, we participate in a Kayaking tour of the surrounding islands in Tata Bay. Lucy and I share a kayak, Lucy at the front and me in the back clumsilly controlling the rudder. We see loads of local sea life including seals, manta rays and jelly fish and stop off at a nearby beach for tea and biscuits. How great is this??


Lucy, scoulding me on rubbish rudder work


Me, standing proudly next to my sturdy sea craft

Arthur´s Pass, 10th -12th January 2011
We drive 5 and a half hours south from Golden Bay in Abel Tasman National Park to Aurthur´s Pass. Along with the route to Milford Sound, this is one of the most beautiful drives in New Zealand. We arrive late so are up early next morning for a trek up Avalanche Peak, 1833 meters, and back down Scotts trek which the guide book says will take us 6-7 hours.

It was a seemingly endless ascent, more rock climbing than walking, with some of the most incredible views of Arthur´s Pass village below. We were stopping every 15 minutes to take photos behind us, only to have a better view 15 minutes later and higher up. When we reached the peak, we were greeted by curious and hungry Kea birds and 360 panoramic views of these incredible mountains.


Walking up Avalanche Peak summit track


The top of the Avalanche Peak Trek at Aurthur´s Pass


The snow-tipped mountains

From Christchurch to Auckland, 12th -16th January 2011
We drive from Arthur´s Pass to Christchurch to drop off and say goodbye to the campervan. Unfortunately, our dear old van isn´t in as good condition now as it was when we picked it up and we have to pay 300 NZ dollars for a cracked windscreen. We stay a night in a hostel and are catching a 6.30am bus to Picton where our ferry awaits at 1pm for the trip back to the North Island and Wellington.

At Wellington we stay the night at Downtown Backpackers and catch another early bus the next morning for an 11-hour trip back up to Auckland, New Zealand´s capital city and our flight out. Next Stop - Santiago, Chile!

New Zealand - North Island - 15th December 2010

Our lovely little campervan

Takapuna - Auckland
We arrived in New Zealand dazed and confused after 3 consequtive flights. Auckland was wet, windy and grey and the exact opposite of the lovely Goa we left behind. Picking up the campervan, we headed to our campsite in Takapuna where we unwound with a bloody great bottle of red wine and Italian meal.


Haruru Falls in Bay Of Islands

Bay Of Islands - 18th December
After a rest day in Takapuna we head north to the Bay Of Islands and Haruru Falls. In 2006, a study showed that the Bay Of Islands has the 2nd bluest sky in the world after Rio de Janeiro. There was no evidence of this as we arrived as it's still pissing down with rain, choking the lovely natural bays with depressing cloud and mist. Lucy does a scuba dive to visit the wreck of Greenpeace's Rainbow Warrior which was sunk in 1985 by the stinking French Intelligence Service killing one of the activists.

Raglan - 20th December
From Bay of Islands, we drive 5 hours south to Raglan which is a renowned for it's popular surfing beaches. We clumsily ask a local for Ngarunui Beach only to be told that we shouldn't be pronouncing the silent 'g'. Regardless of what the beach is called over here, we have a great 2 hours surfing in the choppy sea. Lucy has the ability of an athelete to stand on her board, while I look like a drowning puppy.


Waiotapa geothermal pools

Rotorua - 21st December
Next stop is Rotorua famous for it's geothermal areas including mineral pools and geysers. These features cause the city to be bathed in an intoxicating, sulphous eggy smell. The best place to see these natural phenomenom is in Waiotapa and 'The Thermal Wonderland' and it's pretty impressive if very touristy.

Losing Lucy in the eggy mist

Napier and Cape Kidnappers - 23rd December
Napier is wine county in New Zealand and seems rude to not sample their delights. First off we pop into Napier´s oldest vineyard, Mission Estate and then onto Elephant Wineries, which I think offers the better wine of the two. Lucy orders an amazing Wine makers platter for lunch.

Lucy's amazing wine makers platter

We feel great after two wine tastings so head off to Cape Kidnappers to see nesting herring gulls. Unfortunately we leave it too late and have to turn back to avoid getting trapped by the high tides.

No nesting Herring gulls for us

Wellington - 24th to the 27th December
Spending Christmas day in a campervan doesn't completely fill us with joy so we book ourselves into the Bolton Hotel in Wellington for the festive period. The drive down from Napier is absolutely trecherous however as high winds threaten to toss our campervan from the road. Lucy frantically steers into the wind to compensate and get's us into Wellington in one piece.

We eat and drink through the Christmas period just like everyone else and wake up at 4.30am on the 27th to catch the Interlander ferry to Picton and the South Island.